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Waja 1.8x Ecu And Cobra Immobilizer Prob


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#1
kelvinhunt

Posted 17 May 2010 - 10:49 AM

kelvinhunt

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Hi All,
Am looking forward in hearing whether it is possible for any of you sifu's to extend your expertise in solving my current waja 1.8X predicament.

On Saturday (15th May) my waja's immobilizer (key touch) was not blinking red. It was not blinking at all!

Thus I called Proton emergency assist and the personnel arrived and performed the necessary checking.

Unfortunately he (and this morning-17th May 2010 proton edar service advisor called) confirmed that it was due to my immobilizer module which is faulty. This now has caused the ECU 's signal unable to OFF (here there is an electronic logic bit which should be OFF /low to allow switching on of engine) the immobilizer and prevents the engine from starting.

Now they have advised based on their findings to change the ECU (PW 810067 or 8200279946) and immoblizer module - COBRA (PW 851692) with a new unit and it will be a bomb for sure and it is only a warranty of 6months or 10000km (which ever first) !

Would appreciate if you're able to provide me with any alternative i.e. 2nd hand ECU and module if anyone has changed their engine, replacement of engine, bypassing the ECU without using COBRA immobilizer anymore or any other parts which is reasonable in cost. (I believe the COBRA module is the culprit and the ECU is ok but since both are required to be new due to suspected COBRA module being faulty

Looking forward for your kind assistance and prompt help as I am in dire straits without a vehicle at the moment.

Thanks and have a great day ahead

Regards
Kelvin

012 275 1472


#2
kelvinhunt

Posted 20 May 2010 - 03:23 PM

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Dear Friends,

Fortunately my car has a new ECU (Sagem) and immobilizer module (Cobra) which was purchased and has been successfully revived. The current issue is whether it will behave like it was prior to this breakdown.

Hopefully any of you out there is willing to venture deeper into the current situation as this as if possible perform a temporary bypass until parts is made available (or if you're happy without the immo then it is also fine!)

But the main thing is we should have parts network which is reasonably priced and efficient delivery to minimise our troubles during situations such as this.

Anyway total repair cost is estimated less than RM2k which covers parts, courier, travelling and etc.

What it does not include is my pain and all the troubles that has occured!

Now hopefully my TCU (siemens) does not give way as it too has been showing some funny symptoms such as the indication was jumping from 'D','N','L', 'R' and etc.

This happens when the engine is hot i.e. during jam situation or idling with not much air ventilation.

Hopefully that does not come quickly as I can be affording a high monthly repair expenditure.

Hopefully all of you out there have fun driving your 1.8's

p.s. Anyone out there knows where can I get my rear sunshade replaced with the similar type (1.8X) which was quite helpful when it was functioning.

Regards
KH

#3
kelvinhunt

Posted 22 May 2010 - 06:42 PM

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Dear All,
Finally I have collected my car and it was ok however my alarm system was informed by Proton that it was not functioning as it was casuing starting problems for the car - car could not start when the alarm module was connected.
So they removed the alarm module connection and everythings seems ok.
I however disagreed but could not inform anything to them in particular as it has been in that condition for 8 years since i bought the car, but anyway that is solved now by replacing it with a normal system c/w vibration sensor, sound sensor (for glass breakage and motion sensor. Well it was reasonably priced and I got it done immediately.
As of now the next phase is to determine whether my TCU (Siemens make) will last and also the rear sun shade to be restored or replaced!
As of now I will continue to update this thread for a certain period of time just to verify the ECU's functionality and hopefully working as per the prior unit's.
I hope the fuel consumption, engine characteristic is maintained and that it will perform as the way it should and most importantly as per my driving style before.
Have fun

Kelvin

#4
Gunnerzz

Posted 22 May 2010 - 08:30 PM

Gunnerzz

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The running gear indicator could be caused by a wet connector instead of a wet connector.
U should never wash your engine bay,not even with water.
If u DIY replaced the gearbox fluid,make sure u do it patiently and do not spill any as it might get trapped in the connector and takes forever to dried up..
It happen to my dad's 1.8 b4 and fortunately i hav an air compressor at home.

On the rear sunshade,u can try acc shop.
I do believe most shop has it.

If your car felt different to drive in any way,i recommend u go for a full tune up which cost less than RM100 at Proton.
If u r in Melaka i am more than happy to direct u to an Eon sc which provide good service.

#5
kelvinhunt

Posted 24 May 2010 - 03:47 PM

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Hi gunnerzz,
Thanks for the information but based on my current situation, I have never washed or allowed anyone with the intention of washing my engine bay with water. The only closest the mechnanic got to it is by spraying compressed air and that too after I confirm the moisture is not seen (usually get them to drain the air compressor's water drain plug).

This connector that you're refering to, where is it exactly located?
I have not really seen it or accessed it before this!
I usually take a cotton bud or small piece of cloth and dip it in alcohol and rub the connectors which are for the ECU, TCU, Kelsey Hayes ABS module and other connectors roughly 1-2 years once.

On the rear sunshade, I have not been fruitful with any accessories shop thus far (about 7-8 shops) and none have anything similar to the original installed unit which seems to be better in blocking sun and light of cars with high beam or unadjusted light during night driving. If you do come across, I would gladly get your contact in order for me to make a trip to the location and get it solved.

As for the car's driving condition, it seems to be good / better as I am not feeling the pinging at the engine due to RON95 petrol used earlier. As I was returning from Kuantan at the Karak road where it is uphill for about 1km+ - it seems to be more responsive compared to my earlier similar dirving habits.
Anyway it maybe too early to tell but as I am travelling more frequent now, I will continue to update this section soon - maybe in another weeks or so.

Thanks

#6
Gunnerzz

Posted 24 May 2010 - 10:20 PM

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QUOTE (kelvinhunt @ May 24 2010, 03:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hi gunnerzz,
Thanks for the information but based on my current situation, I have never washed or allowed anyone with the intention of washing my engine bay with water. The only closest the mechnanic got to it is by spraying compressed air and that too after I confirm the moisture is not seen (usually get them to drain the air compressor's water drain plug).

This connector that you're refering to, where is it exactly located?
I have not really seen it or accessed it before this!
I usually take a cotton bud or small piece of cloth and dip it in alcohol and rub the connectors which are for the ECU, TCU, Kelsey Hayes ABS module and other connectors roughly 1-2 years once.

On the rear sunshade, I have not been fruitful with any accessories shop thus far (about 7-8 shops) and none have anything similar to the original installed unit which seems to be better in blocking sun and light of cars with high beam or unadjusted light during night driving. If you do come across, I would gladly get your contact in order for me to make a trip to the location and get it solved.

As for the car's driving condition, it seems to be good / better as I am not feeling the pinging at the engine due to RON95 petrol used earlier. As I was returning from Kuantan at the Karak road where it is uphill for about 1km+ - it seems to be more responsive compared to my earlier similar dirving habits.
Anyway it maybe too early to tell but as I am travelling more frequent now, I will continue to update this section soon - maybe in another weeks or so.

Thanks

I just use air compressor on the connector at the back of the gearbox.
U can see lots of wire back there.

There is also a small black box which if not mistaken is the gear selector related thing.
I use compressed air on that too.

#7
kelvinhunt

Posted 25 May 2010 - 09:30 AM

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gunnerzz,
Thanks for the clarification.
I will check upon it soon or during my timing belt change which is around 5k more.
Have a great time ahead.
Thanks

#8
kelvinhunt

Posted 31 May 2010 - 03:49 PM

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Dear Friends,
I noticed that while driving along the highway I could not accelerate to a higher speed as it was like maintaining the speed (170) even though I had fully stepped the pedal right to the floor!
Would like to know what could be restraining this from going any faster. Since I notice that some of the stock cars are able to reach speeds nearing or passing the 200 mark. How could this be checked and confirmed whether my car is behaving normally.
However with regards to fuel consumption, I managed to get arounf 14km/l during this journey.
Appreciate if any of you could kindly shed some light.
regards
Kelvin

#9
Gunnerzz

Posted 31 May 2010 - 10:27 PM

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QUOTE (kelvinhunt @ May 31 2010, 03:49 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Dear Friends,
I noticed that while driving along the highway I could not accelerate to a higher speed as it was like maintaining the speed (170) even though I had fully stepped the pedal right to the floor!
Would like to know what could be restraining this from going any faster. Since I notice that some of the stock cars are able to reach speeds nearing or passing the 200 mark. How could this be checked and confirmed whether my car is behaving normally.
However with regards to fuel consumption, I managed to get arounf 14km/l during this journey.
Appreciate if any of you could kindly shed some light.
regards
Kelvin

What is the fastest speed drove the car b4 and how frequent do you do that?

If u hav been using it only for city driving then its normal for the engine to be reluctant to accelerate further.
The 1.8 can easily reached 170kmh and going beyond that is not that hard.
Fully depressed,we are loo at a minimum of 190kmh on the speedo.


#10
kelvinhunt

Posted 01 June 2010 - 07:19 PM

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Hi Gunnerzz,

The fastest speed ever driven with the car is around 185. However that is done a number of occasions during my travel on highways up north and down south!

Frequency is not too often but would say everytime i managed to step on the gas, it would surely hit 185 after a while unlike the recent test last week!

Would appreciate if you are able to shed some idea as to whether this is reasonable condition or am i getting into more touble.

Besides that yesterday evening my odometer / tripmeter red colour backlight died all of a sudden! I could see the lcd display in the background with the help of some light (using torchlight or either sunlight mildly lighting it up!) but not easy to read when it is really bright or really dark!
I believe this is just the backlight lcd that would have burned out (similar thing happen with my radio -still ori - where the top left hand light showing the number 1 & 2 for radio station selection also died - I guess this must be something similar but just making things irritating to get it done. Radio I believe would be easy to replace the burned out light but for the dashboard odo/trip meter would really be tough as I've never seen or known how to take the meter panel out to access this led / backlight!
Any idea as to what could be done to revive it as the problems have just started to occur now! A funny set of incidents that are happening one after the other.

have fun
kelvin